“Always focus on the front windshield and not the review mirror.” ― Colin Powell

I thought I’d post a few stats from my time on the road.

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Somewhere, Montana.

Total miles driven: 6,988.
(srsly, I should’ve circled the block a few times to hit 7k)
Total gas cost: $874.45
Highest Gas Paid: $4.15 (just outside Chicago)
Highest Gas Seen: $4.32 (Chicago)
Lowest Gas Paid: $3.19 (Louisiana)
Lowest Gas Seen: $3.13 (Louisiana)Average MPG for the trip: 29.5 mpg
Number of Tornados: 1
Number of Tornado Sirens: 2
Number of ‘Severe Weather Storms’: 5
Number of wild gators touched: 1
Number of Bison within spitting distance of my car: Too many to count.
Number of ‘Pirate Propositions’: 1
Number of Celebrity Sightings: 2 (Mark Harmon… and Frank Marshall counts, right? I tried looking for Kevin McKidd in New Orleans, but no luck).
Best State: Tie between Wyoming and Louisiana. Oh, and Tennessee.
Worst States: Tie between Colorado and Texas. Shit. Hole.
Number of Museums: 10
Number of Dead President’s homes I visited: 2
Number of homeless people I had coffee with: 1
Number of hotel staff I wanted to bring home with me: 4

~*~

Number of times my car hit 200,000 miles: 1!

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“Believe you can and you’re halfway there.” -Theodore Roosevelt

I had two very long drives to take me from Louisville, KY to Medora, ND. I spent a night in Eau Claire, WI, but with a ten hour drive on either side, I didn’t do much but grab a bite to eat, pour a glass of wine and curl into one of the more comfortable of the ‘cheaper’ hotels.

The drive through North Dakota was fairly uneventful – for once the skies were friendly enough. It was pretty much flat grass/farm land the whole way through, though as I approached the National Park area, you could see where the prairie gave way to the bad lands. I arrived around dinner time, checked in and headed to one of the three restaurants in town for a quick dinner. I’ve had my handy-dandy radar app within reach at all times and could see a storm front was headed in. I decided to get to bed early and save the park for the following day. I was in the middle of the interwebs (facebook, twitter, email, etc) when the thunder and lightning rolled in.

IMG_1663The following morning I grabbed a quick breakfast and headed for the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. I hit the visitor center/gift shop first. I little lacking in the gift shop department, but lots of information, and a wonderful video to give a little insight to what the park was when Roosevelt himself spent time in the area and eventually set the land aside. His first cabin was out behind the center and I got to tour it. My reading about his life has paid off though, there was an elderly couple that had some questions but the guide wanted them to wait until the end – sadly they could stay. I asked what questions they had, and they were curious about his life after his first wife, Alice, died. I was able to tell them about his second wife (and childhood sweetheart) and the rest of his children. I’m pretty sure I earned my Jr. Ranger Badge for that one. Right?

I have a few more books about Roosevelt on my shelf to read. I haven’t gotten far IMG_7193into his politics (though on New Years Day he opened the white house to shake hands with every single visitor that wanted to greet him in the new year), but I do know that he set aside roughly 150MILLION acres of land that are now listed as national parks, reserves, etc. That’s pretty awesome.

It was when he came to North Dakota to hunt Bison. Took him three weeks to find one because numbers went from 60million to just over 500. He didn’t want future generations to be without. Ironically, he was one of the last people to kill a bison before he started to work to save them.

I overheard another couple talk about seeing the wild horses not far from the road, so I was eager to head out and possibly get some photos. Apparently it wasn’t meant to be. The first time I circled the park (around 11am by the time I’d seen the cabin, visitors center and gift shop), I didn’t see any sign of the wild ponies. Lots of Bison (a little too close for comfort), about a billion prairie dogs and several kinds of birds, but no horses. The loop is about 40 miles and I took about 2.5 hours to drive it.

Back in Medora I grabbed a quick lunch to go and spent some time in my hotel room uploading photos before exploring Medora (and by exploring I meant checking out all three gift shops) and then headed back to the park in the early evening to circle again in hopes of finding the horses. And I found them! Waaaaay in the distance. I could just barely make them out in the distance with my camera zoom – not even worth taking a photo. I was disappointed, but at the same time – I found them!

The weather was quickly changing again, so I headed back to my hotel for the night. I wanted to get a good nights sleep, and with a last minute decision to drive the park one last time before heading out, I couldn’t sleep in.

Before leaving Medora completely behind, I circled the park one last time in search of the wild horses, and found them! They were still much further that I would’ve preferred. Unlike the Bison, they don’t just stand in the middle of the road and make you wait. But it was great to see them.

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It was a leisurely 415 miles along highway 200 from Medora, ND to Great Falls, MT. There were a few small towns along the way, but there were also several long stretches with absolutely nothing. Halfway there I could see a storm approaching, both via my radar app and the large, dark cloud in the distance. I got a bit of rain and saw a few flashes to the south, but managed to skirt around it before it became anything worth writing home about. Thinking I was done with the mess of weather, I put my phone app away and settled into the last half. Everything was going well until the clouds started changing again. I would later learn there was another Tornado warning, but my most immediate concern was the lightning strikes that I could see on either side of my car. The rain was coming down sideways and I had to slow to about 35mph. It lasted for about an hour before I popped out the other side of the storm to blue skies and fairly sunny weather. I made it to my hotel, grabbed dinner nearby and collapsed into a bed that I don’t remember – I was that tired. Well, I mean, it was my own hotel bed… not just any random bed. That’d be awkward.

“He loved Kentucky, … He thought this was the prettiest country in the world.” – James Monroe

On Friday I packed up, said goodbye to my favorite hotel staff, and headed out on Union Ave and hopped on I-40 toward Nashville. I skirted around the city and toured Andrew Jackson’s home. It was pretty, and much smaller than I expected. I had to dodge a bit of rain, but it was nice to stretch the legs a bit. From there I headed north to Louisville, Kentucky.

I was a little disappointed by Louisville itself. Granted, I really only drove through IMG_1615downtown (and the old part of the city with the historic homes), but it wasn’t that great. That said, I was ready to move to the rolling hills of Lexington thought signs for storm shelters but a bit of a damper on that love. Saturday I spent some time touring the grounds of Lincoln’s boyhood home as well as a Lincoln museum. I also toured the Jim Beam distillery. It was hot and a little humid, but not bad.

I spent half of Sunday at the Kentucky horse park. I could’ve spent all day there, IMG_7041but I wanted to check out the shaker village (which turned out to be a waste of time because a storm rolled in and the rain was too much to see much). I toured the museum at the horse park, watched a show and toured the barns before strolling along the pastures. What a sweet place to be that reminded me of playing around in the pasture or riding with Lydia. Really made me think about somethings and where I’d like to end up. Maybe that dream of a horse of my own could come true…

There is just something about that horse smell. Was nice to scritch a few pony noses and run my fingers through a mane.

Driving to the shaker village and then nearly an hour back to my hotel, I fought with a massive downpour and a bit of thunder/lightning in the distance. The radar app on my phone told me that I’d be skipping the scariest bits, so I wasn’t worried about the thunder and lightning, but the rain was coming down hard and I had to slow to about 40mph on a road where the limit was 65. By the time I got back to my hotel, I was exhausted. I curled up in my hotel room and watched awful TV before going to bed early.

“Walkin’ in Memphis…”

Oh Memphis, I will always love you.

View outside my window.
View outside my window.

In all honesty I didn’t do a damn thing in Memphis except stroll Beale again. There was another museum that I wanted to check out, but the heat, the exhaustion of two weeks on the road, etc etc and I was happy to visit the familiar shops and bars of Beale. I went back to sleep after dropping off Cait and didn’t head out until 10am.

I hit the Peabody first to see if there was anything that I *needed* from their gift shop. Didn’t find anything I couldn’t live without. When I came back out onto Union, I was approached by a homeless guy asking if I needed help finding my way. Unlike the homeless in Seattle that just sit with a cup out hoping for change, the homeless here offer to show you how to get to Beale, Civil Rights Museum, etc in exchange for a few bucks. I said I didn’t need any help, so he asked if I had some spare change (which I didn’t – change or $1’s) so I said sorry and started toward Beale. He started walking along side and asked where I was from. We walked and talked until we hit Beale (at which point I learned his name was Richard). I was heading toward Starbucks, so I offered coffee and a muffin if he wanted to join me (he asked if he could have a dollar instead, but I reminded him that I didn’t have cash, was just going to use my starbucks card). He agreed but refused to go inside. So I got our drinks (he didn’t want a muffin) and then we sat outside. He told me all about Memphis – most of which I already knew. Told me what areas not to go by myself (which is really everywhere outside of a few block radius of my hotel – and yes, I know this). We didn’t talk for very long, but he was very nice, polite and left with a ‘God bless you’.

drinkI had lunch at BB kings and around late-afternoon headed back to my hotel. And I didn’t leave. I ordered room service for dinner and then contemplated heading to the Peabody for their rooftop party, but then the rain rolled in again so I went to bed early (by trip standards). It was delightful.

I was up at 8:30 this morning and got my stuff ready to go. It was about 10 before I pulled away from my most favorite hotel. It’s not the fanciest, but something about it. Every single interaction with staff leaves me with a smile on my face. When I ordered room service last night, we were chit-chatting about the tornado siren the previous night and I told her that it really hit home after OKC. Her hand flew to her mouth and she was like, “Oh Lawd no… they just like to be dramatic around here. I haven’t seen a tornado since I was three. And it was a tiny thing!” Then the woman at the front desk was joking around and as I turned to leave she said “Oh honey-child, you have a safe trip, okay? And you’d better come back to see me!”

Just delightful.

From Memphis I headed east toward Nashville. I skirted the outside of the city and went to the home of the 7th President Andrew Jackson. Was a delightful tour with people dressed for his time period. It wasn’t exactly the Monticello and while the grounds were lovely, it was a bit dreary as a rain storm moved through. The house itself was small, but lovely inside. The wallpaper from Paris was beautiful and the original hardwood floors put our floors to shame (sorry Dad).

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One of the things I really loved, was the collection of different trees from where he served during the War of 1812. I also loved that his grand daughter lived in the house until it became a museum in… whatever year that was… and was able to help them place things exactly how they had been when he lived.

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From there I slowly made my way up toward the outskirts of Louisville, Ky. I didn’t arrive until 7:30ish. I made a quick stop at Wal-Mart for a set of tennis balls. Ever since that white-knuckle drive after the tornado, my shoulders have been crazy tight. Best $2.28 I ever spent. I spent 15 minutes laying on those and already I feel much better. My hotel has a delicious amount of brochures out front so I’ve been thumbing through things I might like to see. It’ll be a busy weekend in the Louisville/Lexington area, for sure!

n’awlins…

Wow, what an experience.

We rolled into New Orleans around 11pm after a slow start in OKC. The drive was long, but the weather was perfect after all the Tornado drama. We pulled into the parking garage beside our hotel (located in an awesome part of the French Quarter on St. Ann. Opening the door was a bit of a slap in the face as far as heat/humidity are concerned. Check in was smooth and we were taken through a maze of a courtyard to our room.courtyard

Oh my Lord. Love.

The Place was beautiful. With a small pool, fountain with goldfish and big, green plants everywhere! I could’ve spent a whole week relaxing in the courtyard (in the cooler hours) and never left the hotel. We crashed pretty quick in the comfort of the chilled room. I think our hotel offered breakfast, but we ended up at Stanley for breakfast. Not a huge place, but super simple/delicious items on the menu. Much of Monday was spent in/out of shops, grabbing a bite to eat and shopping again. By 3pm we headed back to wait out the hottest part of the day and then hit the streets again around 7. We grabbed dinner and then headed to a bar called ‘Port of Call’ for a Monsoon. From there we found Bourbon St. and wandered a bit until we found a fun bar and parked there. Knowing we had to be out the door early, we started early and were back before mid-night.

IMG_6961Tuesday we hit the road by 8:30 and drove 30’ish miles to Jean Lafitte for an airboat adventure. Again, it was ridiculously hot/humid even by 9:30. We went out on a boat with about 12 people, plus our guide James. He was pretty funny and took us around, pointing stuff/alligators out. He got out and hand fed one named Vicky that he’s been working with ‘for years’. We moved on and were cruising along when suddenly we’re slowing and he’s asking me to get up (Cait and I were on either side of him). I jumped up and turn to see that there is smoke coming from the engine in the back.

The boat overheated.

So we sat. And waited.

It took about 30 minutes for the ‘rescue’ boat to come. James switched with us and the other guy towed the original boat back. We lost out on a good chunk of time, IMG_6969but James took us to this closed off area. He killed the motor and suddenly all these gators are swimming toward the boat (these gators know the sounds of the boats and come quick for treats). He’s feeding them and talking about size and suddenly goes…. “okay, who wants to touch one? I’m not suppose to let you, but I gotta make it up to you.” Cait and I nearly fell from the boat, we were so excited. Basically he brought them in close and then as they turned to swim along side the air-boat, we could reach down and pet behind their eyes. So cool. I touched a wild alligator. Life changing. Such a powerful creature.

Afterward we headed back to the hotel, grabbed lunch and hit up a few museums before retreating to the cool of our room for a few hours. The museum exhibit about hurricane Kartrina was so sad. And the huge screen playing clips from the storm with the added fans to have wind was a bit… off putting after the storm we’d been through. Pretty sad at how much damage was done, but also how everything was handled.

Dinner was at the gumbo shop and then we wandered a bit before heading home to get stuff ready for this morning. We were able to sleep in a bit (8:30), have a easy breakfast and then headed up toward Memphis by 10am. We made a new friend with the woman that helped bring our bags to the car. She talked a bit about her experience in Katrina and because of it, her family photos, deed to her house, etc are kept in her car. As much as I loved the city, I couldn’t live in fear like that.

We had a short drive today – only 6hours. The drive was fine until we were about 2 hours from Memphis. We hit a massive lightning storm with rain so hard that we couldn’t see more than 30 feet in front of us. We crawled along I-55 at 35-40mph for a bit before it let up. I pretty much just white-knuckled through and Cait sat perfectly still staring out ahead. Needless to say, we skipped ‘Eye of the Tiger’ on the playlist.

We hit Memphis around 5:15. It’s the same hotel that I’ve stayed at the previous two times I’ve been here. I absolutely love it. It’s right downtown, easy access to Beale, and major highways and I *know* the area. We grabbed dinner and drinks at the Kooky Kanuck and then wandered Beale for a bit before coming back to our hotel so Cait could pack her purchases (I’ve got to drop her at the airport at 5:30am). We were relaxing when suddenly we hear something outside. We weren’t sure what it was, so I jokingly commented that, with our luck, it was a tornado siren. Joke is on me, because the dark clouds rolled in with thunder/lightning and surprise (!!) it was a tornado siren. It only lasted maybe 20 minutes and the hotel staff said they weren’t concerned – we’d get a call to our room if we needed to hit the basement (plus side, we have a basement). Weather is supposed to be fine for tomorrow, but I can assure you that I’m pretty tired of this weather crap. Like, legit… I’m done.

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Not sure what tomorrow holds, but I know it includes getting some more sleep once Cait is safely delivered to the airport. I’m exhaused.

Mark Harmon.

Yes. The reason for the trip.

IMG_6762I’m really not sure what it is, but there is something about him/the show. Maybe it’s because he’s so very much like Gibbs in real life and I love how strong of a character it is (and that he has flaws – he’s no hero). Maybe I love the show so much because it reminds me of my Grandpa. I don’t know. But I get serious happy feelings when I can look over and see Mark Harmon ten feet over drinking a beer – and it’s no big deal.

It’s funny, before each weekend the past three years, I’ve thought to myself, “great, I’ll go once get the pic/autograph/t-shirt and that’ll be it. A great experience and… time to move on.” But that’s not the case. Someone from the OKCIC mentioned ‘next year’ and I was practically mapping out a potential route in my mind.

But I digress.

Since the event on Friday was cancelled because of… oh… what was it? Oh, a tornado (!!!), the dinner event was postponed to Saturday. Saturday was originally supposed to be the baseball game, but the dugouts were flooded with 10 inches of water and so it was cancelled. Harmon and his buddies (retired sports guys, Frank Marshall – my second favorite person) still showed up to sign autographs. We had to wait in line for awhile as this was a free event, but it was in the shade and they had free lunch if people were interested (hotdog, chips and a soda). I felt bad that I didn’t have (well, want) anything signed by the other guys as I made my way down the line.

Rick Sutcliffe was sitting next to Frank Marshall and asked to see the photo I had to be signed. It was this one, from last year: IMG_6656

He thought it was hilarious and nudged Frank to look. Last year, his eyes lit up at the sight of flat!Gibbs and he had a good time joking around. Was pretty much the same expression when he saw the photo and then took a few moments to decide what to write (rather than just sign his name). He then passed it to Harmon, who also got a laugh out of it. It was pretty chill though, friendly conversation. Not that IMG_6755we’re actual bff’s like I love to announce, but there is certainly a familiarity. And it’s nice that he actually take the time to look up, make eye contact and talk rather than just let people shuffle down the line awkwardly.

From there we walked back to the hotel (about a mile) surveying some of the damage. Not a lot in Bricktown – a few toppled trees, broken street lamp, but nothing major. I showered, did my hair and then it was about time to head back out to Shawnee for a redo of the event. It was fun, but more subdued. I’m not sure that everyone found out that it was rescheduled, or maybe some of the locals had bigger things to deal with. The waitress we befriended at Flint Bar was there with her mom and sister – two of their cars were caught up in flood water and the sister’s apartment (downtown OKC) had some damage. They had been up until 3am, but nothing was going to keep them away from the event. Super sweet people. I got my second photo signed (on that Darby – plays Shannon Gibbs) had mailed me. He said she was super sweet (which I’d have to agree) and after some quick chit-chat, we moved on.

Some cool auction items this year – the main one that I’d pretty much do most anything for, was a set tour of NCIS for four people. It went for $7500. My friends and I were quickly trying to figure out if we could split that cost, but… I wish. Maybe I should get a third job and set money aside JUST for that. My luck, they won’t auction a set visit next year.

Spoke briefly with Frank Marshall again and then pretty much just hung out with my friends. It was a bit PTSD’ish being back again the same night and every time we’d step outside for some fresh air, we’d glance up at the sky and then check our radar 970174_505048410152_1536629773_napps on our phones. Still can’t believe what all happened there. This is the building across from the bowling alley. The bathroom shelters were inside.

In the end, it turned out to be a really, really nice event. And while I will always be terrified of returning to OKC, I can’t wait to go back.

 

P.S. CAIT IS A FUCKING PRO PHOTOGRAPHER – EXCEPT WHEN SHE TAKES MOSTLY BLURRY PHOTOS.

Speechless.

I will do a longer blog about the MH event, but it’s late and I’m exhausted from driving Oklahoma City to New Orleans today.

IMG_6844But before we left Oklahoma, we took some time to drive through Moore, OK. All I can say, is that I’m speechless. Cait and I drove around for maybe 15-20 minutes and the only thing we kept saying was “holy fuck” over and over again, because really…. what else can you say? There is zero way to comprehend how massive this thing was until you are driving down a street where people are standing in front of what was their house, wondering where to begin.

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And then, just around a corner will be a house missing a few shingles, maybe a broken window and a neat pile of branches in their yard to be picked up.

I mean, we’re still… unsure of how to explain our own situation when, in retrospect, was nothing near this level of scary.

But I tell you what, the warnings that hurricane season has officially begun, was not what we wanted to see as we drove toward the gulf coast.

So while I didn’t shit my pants…

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The storm rolling in.

I’m not saying last night was the scariest night of my life, but…. I wouldn’t deny it either. Our hotel is downtown OKC and the bowling alley is in Shawnee. We kept an eye on the radar and saw a storm approaching from the west. Shawnee is east of OKC so we hoped that by going east the storm would skip north of us. We got to the bowling alley and were pretty much glued to the TV screens that had the news on.

I will say, that most everyone around here has the attitude of ‘there ain’t nothing you can do about it, so just go with it’. Cait and I couldn’t understand how people 943428_10100355763460850_1039848678_ncould be so calm. Like, we could get blown to the fucking Mississippi and you’re standing there sipping your bud light and look like you’re pissed because you forgot to move your grill into the shed. Um… hello?!

Unlike the previous day, rather than curving north, the storm followed I-40 east, right for us. We stood outside the building and watched as it approached until the Sheriff got word that we needed to evacuate. Not gonna lie, for Cait and I… our ‘out of town’ was showing and we were the first bitches across the lot to the storm shelter. I mean, I even ducked back into the building to grab the photos I was going to have autographed (I ain’t leaving that shit behind), and still made it through the doors first. We could see the massive lightning (like multiple streaks across the sky at once), hear the thunder, etc. The sky looked so, so angry and it was loud. Oh so very loud.

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Those are my sparkly shoes in the bottom of the pic.

The designated shelter was a concrete bathroom inside a giant empty ware-house/grocery store type building. And while I know there was nasty tornado weather outside, I was a little more freaked out by the spider and huge dead bugs in the corners (like, if I have to huddle in here, can we not keep it clean?). We spent approx 90 minutes in the shelter tweeting/facebooking the storm. The people in charge (police were great, had water bottles for us and were really good to clear, concise, calm directions). We got the chance to go back out and ‘watch’ for a bit in between storm cells and…. I have no words.

Since it was a community shelter, it wasn’t just event people that were there. I talked to one woman who had about 10 minutes to get out of her house and when we were leaving, she had no idea if she had a house to go home too. I really hope she does.

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Eventually we were allowed to head out (if we wanted). We waited around a bit until the police could confirm that I-40 was open and that it was just thunder/lightning and wind gusts. We hit hail at one point but it didn’t get to be too bad. The first few minutes of driving in the lightning was pretty terrifying but it was so constant that we just sort of grew numb to it. There were no street lights, so I lingered a ways behind the car in front of me and had my brights on so I could see the lanes on the highway. The lightning also lit up the road in flashes and actually helped to see the highway exit. We found covered parking across the street from the hotel and the rain had slowed enough by then that it wasn’t bad going across the street.

Today we found out that people were supposed to be off the roads by 4pm. We never got the msg, so when traffic was heavy at 5:30… it was people still leaving. Glad we didn’t leave any later, traffic got worse on I-40 and people were essentially ‘sitting ducks’ on the interstate. I believe almost all the fatalities were due to people staying in their cars.

Today it’s in the high-70’s, sunny and we can see the tail of the storm off in the horizon as the weakened system moves across Arkansas. We get a re-do of the event tonight and it’ll be interesting to see the area in day light. Tomorrow we head south to New Orleans and our route will take us right through Moore, Ok.

Let me tell you, from the bits and pieces I saw last night… nothing in the news even remotely prepares you for this shit. Nothing.

** At one point we had a bit of a break between storm cells to get out and get some fresh air (it was hot in the bathroom) so here is a bit of a video that I recorded. You can’t really see/hear the rain, but it was coming down pretty good. The video doesn’t really do it justice, but… click here