“Ude godt, men hjemme bedst”

There’s no place like home.

Except when two places feel equally at home.

I’ve been meaning to post about the last two weeks we spent in Denmark before flying back home, but… I just haven’t. I don’t want the trip, the excitement… I don’t want it to be over. And none of that, don’t cry because it’s over, smile because it happened bullshit. I don’t buy it.

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Cheeseburgers for the local Danes and hotdogs for the visiting Danes.

Friends, family, silver wedding anniversary, a baptism, favorite sights and old hangouts. At times it felt like one long continuous day, meeting one person for lunch, another for dinner and little time to sit back and relax to enjoy it all. We spent two weeks eating and drinking our way around the country. Although it’s not “known” for it’s food (how many legit Danish restaurants in Seattle), food in Denmark is amazing. It’s more than just hotdogs (I guess) and there are several favorites that you just can’t get around here. One of my favorites as the weather heats up (and it was plenty warm while we were there) is koldskål med kammerjunker and strawberries.

 

 

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Koldskål

A cold, sweet/tart buttermilk (??) dairy soup which is fantastic for a warm afternoon snack. Unless you are my dad (obvs. not a real dane) who doesn’t like it. I guess he’s more of a meat and potatoes kinda guy (ok, so maybe he really is danish). But we had open-faced sandwiches which are really a shame to eat as they tend to look more like something you’d see in a culinary art book, rather than something you’d want to cut into and eat. Shrimp and egg, liver pâté with bacon, cheese with jam, roast beef… the options are endless. Oh, and my forever-favorite, mackerel in tomato sauce with mayo. Strawberry season was in high swing with all the warm weather and countless grocery stores had them right outside the front door, the earthy-sweet smell tempting me everywhere I went.

It was great to catch up with friends while in town. When I first came to Denmark on myIMG_4365 own, it was for a semester of Danish language at a ‘boarding school’ in Rønde, Denmark. Located in an old farm (shared with an organic farming school). I have enough memories to probably write a whole series (oh the secrets I could share…). That’s a whole different post. Moving on. But one of the friends I managed to catch up with was Frederikke, from Greenland. We said our goodbyes in December 2003 and were lucky to meet 6 months later at a little reunion at the school (she stayed an extra semester). May 2004 was the last time I saw her. Until now! I’ve kept in contact with several from that school (I saw Dorte while in town too), and have been lucky enough to catch up with those living in Denmark over the years and Trond who I get to see once a year or so. But I just haven’t been able to connect with those living in Greenland (it’s on my bucket list to visit though). We met for brunch (at one of my favorite cafes) and then wandered the city for a few hours after. It was just like old times, laughing and having a good time. I hope it’s not another 14 years before I see her again.

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A-Dizz, Anders.

I also got to catch up with ‘the guys’ from university. Helgi (JFC, your name keeps autocorrecting to ‘hello’) and Anders (pictured) both went to RUC and we did a couple projects together. While we all tease each other mercilessly, they are pretty chill to hangout with and I’ve always had fun with them. Back in 2008 (I think?) we took a trip to Prague together and still laugh about how Helgi was a little bitch about holding his liquor, yet instantly puked his second shot of Absinthe (Anders and I knew that one was enough). Sure, he could drink me under the table any day, but I’ve never puked in the middle of a bar… so that’s something, right? We beer-hopped (drank a beer at a cafe, moved on to drink beer somewhere else), had an ice cream, dinner and then went our separate ways. We’ve obviously grown and matured (mostly) since our college days, but in someways it’s funny to see how things never change. Even though we’re not in contact as frequently these days, it’s nice to know that we can meet up, drink a beer and chat like it’s been three weeks, not three years. Definitely friends that I am grateful to still have in my life.

I also had to see some of my favorite sites/sights around the city. I love taking the bus around Copenhagen. It comes frequently enough (esp. during the day, downtown) that you don’t have to worry about a schedule. Hop on, hop back off, walk a few blocks and hop back on again. If I had the time, I would catch the bus from my cousin’s house and rather than take the train in (much faster) I would switch to another bus and take the longer route into the city. Old buildings, crazy bike traffic, random block parties and cafes that spill out onto the sidewalk. Taking a canal tour from Nyhavn is a great way to get the basics on some of Copenhagen’s history. With a cool breeze coming in off the water, as long as the SPF is lathered on thick, it’s a great way to spend an afternoon. I wandered past the Queen’s palace – if I circle enough she could at least invite me in for coffee, right?

 

And of course a day in Roskilde, my old hood. Stomping grounds.

The main pedestrian street seems to be lacking in the shopping department. Several stores that I used to enjoy aren’t there any longer (apparently I really was boosting the economy), but my absolute favorite stop in all of Denmark remains (it’s also been there for 840+ years, so… doubt it’s going anywhere anytime soon) the Roskilde Domkirke (Cathedral).

IMG_7349This place is my jam. And I can’t even tell you why (like, I would if I knew, but even I don’t know). Even as a kid, I loved coming to this place. Maybe I was just embracing my inner history nerd, even as a little kid? Maybe I was creeped out by all the dead people or the sheer magnitude of this place? I don’t know, but I seriously love this place. It’s old and holds so many stories (and the stories of the kings and queens buried here). And for the first time, I got to go upstairs to a small museum with things that they found around it (old shoes, stuff from the royalty, etc).  I felt like a kid in the candy store, touch touch touching the old door knobs, the metal railing and brick walkway built so that the bishop didn’t have to walk outside and across the street from his residence. Phew, I could go on forever.

And of course, family.

With the popularity of facebook, instagram and snapchat, it’s easier than ever to keep in contact with those that live halfway around the world.

But it just isn’t the same.

And it sucks.

Nothing beats sitting in the back yard, drinking coffee and just chatting. Sure I know my cousins bike a lot (I’ve seen the pics) but now I know routes and times and distances and it’s nice to be a part of the conversation. Not just liking a post. Double-tapping a picture.

One of the main reasons we chose May/June (certainly wasn’t due to cheap airfare), was my cousin Michael and Pia’s 25th wedding anniversary. We woke them up (“surprise”) with a few songs (and a band), after which they just happened to have breakfast for 40(?) people. And then later that night was an amazing dinner party to celebrate.

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The Danes do birthdays, anniversaries… really any reason to party, right. Songs, speeches, dancing. It’s not just some sit down dinner with quiet chatter, it’s a loud, rambunctious affair that everyone takes part of. And when the restaurant shuts down and kicks you out at 1am, you better believe you are going to sleep tight when your taxi finally brings you home.

So in a nutshell, I had an amazing vacation. A vacation that I don’t want to end, despite the fact that MY suitcases are empty (can’t speak for others…), I’ve already been through a few cycles of laundry and half my Danish candies are gone. So I’ll just dream about the next adventure (or job offer in Copenhagen – put the word out, please hire me) and hold on to the sweet memories I was able to make.

Until next time, skål!

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Aperol spritz 

 

“Whoever does not visit Paris regularly will never really be elegant.” -Honoré de Balzac

Paris is ugly.

Sure it has the charm of Eiffel Tower and the history tucked away in the Louvre. It has the churches like Notre Dame and Sainte- Chapelle. But Paris also holds a kind of chaos that you don’t see in other big cities. Everyone is in a rush, there is trash along every street and the smog from the non-stop traffic has to be scrubbed off your face at the end of the day.

Any maybe that’s why I hardly took any photos of Paris.

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Did you really go to Paris if you didn’t get at least ONE solid Eiffel Tower photo? 

Instead I spent my time bouncing from one stationary shop to another followed by just about every kitchen supply/bake shop that ever was.

I stayed a simple hotel in the Saint-George’s neighborhood in the 9th arrondissement. Hotel France Albion. Just out of the hustle and bustle of the touristy area, but not quite out in the suburbs either. I was located in the middle of two metro stops which meant that hopping off/on public transportation was a breeze (although I didn’t figure out/make use of the bus system until my last full day and that would’ve made it even easier). The room was very small, but comfortable and the front desk staff were friendly and helpful. They even held my macarons for me for two days in their fridge since my room didn’t have one. They said they weren’t supposed too, but the manager was out for the weekend, and they couldn’t let my macarons be wasted.

I had an inside room, meaning I really didn’t have a view other than other peoples windows. But I did spy this little gem enjoying a warm afternoon with the window open.

Since I’ve done the major tourist sites more than once, I wasn’t set on seeing them again. I wanted to explore the smaller side streets, the small shops and markets, and what else I could stumble upon.

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Raspberry/lemon glaze

Since I took a class at La Cuisine once before, and had a blast, I decided to take another class with them again. But three years ago, when I took my first class there, I started following them on instagram as well. Via their instagram I found several other locations to visit, including Boneshaker, a relatively new doughnut shop that regularly sells out — yes, they are that good.

One of the other delightful shops I visited was L’Ecritoire a little stationary/paper/pen shop that was down a maze of pedestrian streets and alleys. They were thrilled to find that I had found them via instagram and took down my name (wtf, where is the follow back?!). The shopkeeper was so/so with her English (but better than my non-existent French) and did her best to explain that all of their stuff was locally made in France and by small family run businesses. It was just so cute!

IMG_2620 2But the main highlight of my stay in Paris was by far my macaron class. We started by making three types of ganache: vanilla, chocolate mint and pistachio. Chef Segolene was great at explaining how we could easily make other flavors at home (I want to try lavender) as the flavor comes only from the filling, not the little cookies/meringues. With the ganache set aside, she walked us through step by step to make Italian meringue for the cookies. You can use the French version, but they are harder to work with and make a smooth cookie. So all of what you see in bakeries is done the Italian way. There were eight of us in class, working in pairs, yet we each got a chance to mix, and to pipe the cookies onto the tray. We made so many that we didn’t get a chance to get them all in/out the oven, so the chef offered to bake them for the staff. Despite not finishing them all, we each walked out with a box of a dozen or so.

 

 

I do my best proofreading after I hit send.

I follow (sometimes, more of binge-read 20 posts and forget about it for two months) a great blog about living frugally – mostly done by growing your own food. It’s a fun blog, the writer is semi-local (Gig Harbor area) and has chickens in her backyard. So while most of the recipes and ideas are healthy/organic, she’s not super strict about it – she’s more focused on getting a good deal. Which is fine, whatever. But I was going over the comment section (omg, ‘internet don’t 101)and someone commented on some nonorganic/health food stuff. Basically, she said she disagreed with something, gave her reasons and went on her way. The comment/reasoning were fineand she wasn’t rude. But all the replies to her comment were horrible! I don’t claim to eat perfect (because I don’t), but these people attacking her for eating as cleanly as possible were almost comical. Except they weren’t because they were adamant that GMO’s are fineand if we weren’t meant to eat chemicals sometimes, it wouldn’t taste good and blah blah blah…

So I wrote up a great response, limited the snark and went with a couple facts and clicked submit and…. Oh. My. God. Is that ‘there’ instead of ‘their’? Luckily I caught it quickly and clicked edit before my comment could be posted (all comments are moderated anyway), but there is no sure-fire way to make less of a point or appear uneducated than to use the wrong form of there/their or two/too/to or anything similar.

Whew.

Anyway, I’ve been awful at this blogging crap, despite my 30 before 30 goals to blog regularly. I’ve been sick for forever, but finally seeing a light at the end of the tunnel (hopefully not a train). I have a doctors appointment Wednesday, so I’m looking forward to that. Unless needles are involved. Then I might be looking forward to it a little less.

 Being sicks means I’ve not cooked much lately. But my latest adventure in the    kitchen came in the form photoof scallops. The first time I tried a scallop (that I  remember) was last falland it was delicious. It was part of an appetizer and much better than I expected. I didn’t give it much thought until I was wandering Whole  Foods looking for something different protein-wise compared to my standard chicken. Not that there is anything wrong with one of the eleventy-billion ways I cook chicken, but I can’t have chicken 365, can I? And I’ve never been great at cooking Salmon (another fav) – either over or under cooking it. So I decided to give scallops a try. The guy behind the counter was great and gave me several tips – both for the scallops and for a ‘sauce’. Let me start by saying that I royally fucked up the sauce. Like, blackened/burned garlic mush. But the scallops ended up seared to perfection. I added them to some arugula and goat cheese and then tossed with a dressing of lemon juice, honey, olive oil and garlic.qq

For the scallops I used a cast iron pan. I heated it to med-highand once the pan was hot I added a bit of olive oil and butter and after a quick pat withpaper towel, I added the scallops. I cooked them for a short 90 seconds per side (and by short, I mean that I counted to 90 quicker than one one-thousand, two…). They were tender enough for my fork to slice through, but just seared enough to have a bit of a crusted edge. While they certainly aren’t cheap – Whole Foods sells them for $23.99 a pound and Fred Meyer’s sells them for $18.99 a pound,  four run me about $8 – they are a great alternative for something healthy, low calorie and fairly good for you. Except the butter that I cooked them in, but it wasn’t much. So if  you’re looking for something different and delicious give them a try! But be careful, 10-15 seconds can make a difference between seared to perfection and over-cooked.

** Edited because I didn’t proof-read until I posted. Ugh. Lesson not learned.